Final Day 49 - Thursday 28th May

Keiss to John O'Groats - Turned out to be only 9 miles to John O'Groats - now that's a more sensible distance to run. Sprint finish (naturally) and arrived there at 10.15am! Done it - 1204 miles. Back to work then!

Day 48, Wednesday 27th May 2009

Lybster to Keiss
Only 21 miles today, most of it again on the A99 but with the last 3 miles along the beach at Sinclairs Bay. The first 1.5 miles along the beach was fantastic - perfect sand, no stones, no seaweed, no people. However, we then reached a fairly big river crossing the beach and were unsure how deep it was. As it looked fairly deep and fast-flowing and as it seemed a shame for either of us to be drowned with less than 20 miles to go to John O'Groats, we sent Linda in first. When she got to waist level we started to worry, but she made it across and we followed her route (we knew there was a reason why we let her join us). Greeted at the end by Kev and Louise, who had run the first few miles with us at Lands End and had driven up to run the last few miles with us to John O'Groats - blinking glory-hunters!

Day 47 - Tuesday 26th May

Helmsdale to Lybster - 24 miles.

All our route today was along the A9 and the A99 - not really our thing. There were however several redeeming features, namely sunshine, no wind, hardly any traffic and panoramic views over the almost becalmed North sea.

Given that there wasn't anything else to do but keep running, we finished nice and early and went for a refreshing swim in the sea at Lybster harbour. It was most invigorating (which in gaelic is "blea din frea sin"). Only 35 miles to go - looks like we might make it!

Day 46 - Monday 25th May

Dornoch to Helmsdale - 29 miles
Despite a lack of sunshine, an excellent day. Chris drove us back from Dornoch to Skelbo where we had finished yesterday afternoon. Lo and behold the tide was out and there at our exact starting point were 48 grey seals on a sandbank, overseen by a heron. Our route followed the main A9 road which we had to run along for short spells, but mainly we were able to avoid it by a combination of coastal footpaths, tiny roads and several miles along deserted sandy beaches - brilliant. Went past this stunning fairytale castle straight out of Disneyland called Dunrobin.

We saw a number of what Aly thought were common cormorants (or shags) but Malcolm was unable to verify what they were as he could not remember what a common cormorant was like.

Day 45 - Sunday 24th May

Alness to Dornoch - 28 miles
Nice bright morning with all road running but on pleasant country lanes. Reached Tain after 12 miles, where we met up with Linda, Barbara and Harry, and soon afterwards were also joined by Chris who had driven up to join us for the rest of the trip.
Linda ran with us to Dornoch, a delightful small seaside town with a cathedral, a world renowned golf course and beautiful sands. As is our wont we immediately went into the sea for a paddle (Harry went in after us and promptly fell in headfirst but came up smiling!). Although we were staying in Dornoch we had another 5 miles to go to try and equalize the daily distances, and this took us along the coast to a spot called Skelbo on an inlet where there was a possibility of seeing grey seals. Unfortunately the tide was in and there were no seals to be seen.
Went past 1117 miles which was what we originally estimated to be our total distance, but unfortunately we still have 4 days to go. We did however see our first sign for John O'Groats - 85 miles!!!

Day 44 - Saturday 23rd May 2009

Beauly to Alness - 28.5 miles

Left Beauly's pretty lanes and views over to the estuary as we climbed, rucksacks making their prescence known immediately! What appeared to be a short woodland trek on our map ended up as a gorse and fir tree endurance test. Trek path eventually discovered and made our way through. A local lady said the trek had not been used for years and was amazed we had managed to navigate our way through - "that's end to end explorers for you!"

The day felt tough and long with our sacks; the climb close to Strathpepper, along a ridge gave us glorious views all around and our spirit and energies were revived. (tea and scones in Dingwall helped too!)

Looking forward to Chris, Linda, Barbara (Linda's mum) and Harry joining us tomorrow!

Day 43 - Friday 22nd May

Alltsigh to Beauly,

29 miles today, most of it uphill, or so it seemed (2000 feet ascent). Thought we had to carry all our kit, which would have been very hard work, but Lo! A fairy godmother (called Carolyn) appeared out of the blue. We had met Carolyn very briefly at the end of one of our days in Yorkshire and she had told us that she lived in Drumnadrochit, which was on todays route, and that she would look out for us. Better than that however, she came and collected our bags from Alltsigh and delivered them to Beauly for us. What an angel!

First half of the day was still on the Great Glen way, we left it and headed north on a route we had devised ourselves. This included going through the grounds of Deaufort Castle, which we weren't sure was a public right of way. Sure enough, it wasn't. We had to wade through a river, but we made it and were very pleased with ourselves.

Pretty good weather all day with glorious sunny evening, warmest we've been on whole trip.

Day 42, Thursday 21st May

South Laggan to Alltsigh ( Loch Ness)
Our second day on the Great Glen Way with the last 12 miles along Loch Ness. All our fair- weather supporters have now deserted us so we have to carry all our kit on our backs for the next 4 days. Came across a sheep on the Caledonian Canal which panicked and charged at Aly, catching her on the hand with it's horn - it was a bit like a Scottish version of bullfighting! Staying tonight right on the shore of Loch Ness with fantastic views along the loch in both directions.

Day 41, Wednesday 20th May

Fort William to South Laggan - 24 miles.
A new experience today, breakfast at "Morrisons"! Super route today up the Great Glen towards Inverness. The Great Glen contains 4 lochs ( including Loch Ness) which are linked together by the Caledonian Canal (built by Thomas Telford) which allows fairly large ocean - going boats to get right across Scotland. There are a number of flights of locks on the canal and some swing bridges, one of which Aly was allowed to wind open, to her great delight ( little things...) Wonderful scenery all day, with a mixture of sunshine and the odd shower. Went past 1000 miles in mid-morning - blimey!

Day 40, Tuesday 19th May

Kinlochleven to Fort William.
Hurray! - a rest day! Only 16 miles today after 113 miles in the last 4 days. Jessica and Matt went back to Barwell. Nephew Chris ran 7 miles from Fort William to meet us and then 7 miles back to Fort William with us. Ben Nevis was cloud capped but still looked awesome. Had to decide this afternoon between climbing Ben Nevis or drinking tea in a cafe. It was a close run thing but the cafe just shaded it.

Day 39 - Monday 18th May

Tyndrum to Kinlochleven - 29 miles. (973 in total). Our third day on the West Highland Way, but after being completely shattered yesterday, for some reason we both felt good today and cruised the 29 mile route. The main difference today was that the underfoot conditions were good and we were able to keep running without having to stop to pick our way over boulders. Went through the magnificent but eerie Glen Coe and over the Devil's Staircase.

Malcolm's trainers, nearly new when setting off from Lands End got binned and replaced by sparkling new white ones (the original pair started as white but were seriously brown when they hit the bin.)

Day 38 - Sunday 17th May

Rowardennan to Tyndrum - 27 miles. Beautiful weather yet again, wonderful scenery yet again - this trip is so boring! Lunch was provided by Jessica and Matt, who had to set off from Barwell at 5.30 am to be with us, but to be fair, we're worth it.

Day 37 - Saturday 16th May

Lennoxtown to Rowardennan - Spirits restored after yesterday's depression! Rain forecast for everywhere but naturally we had sunshine. There was one heavy shower at lunchtime but we managed to be in a cafe at the time and so didn't care. Got to Loch Lomond for our last 8 miles, through woods full of bluebells - stunning.

27 miles today, 917 in total (past Hairy McNairy's distance, Ha!)

Day 36 - Friday 15th May

Linlithgow to Lennoxtown - Not a bundle of fun today, 29 miles and all but 4 along canal towpath with little in the way of interest except the Falkirk Wheel, a remarkable piece of engineering enabling canal boats to transfer from the Union Canal to the Forth & Clyde Canal 80 feet below. No rain but overcast and windy all day - a long slog. New supporters joined us today, Malcolm's nephew Chris and girlfriend Justina.

Day 35 - Thursday 14th May

West Linton to Linlithgow - In accordance with the meticulous planning, yet another beautiful sunny day. Set off through the Portland Hills (the last of the Borders Hills), with views across to Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat (next sight of Edinburgh and Arthur's seat will be on Jessica's hen party in July, although I haven't been officially invited yet). Decended into Scotland's industrial heartland between Edinburgh and Glasgow, but contrary to our fears our route protected us from the built-up areas by way of 5 miles of country park and 12 miles on the Union Canal, including an elevated section over a viaduct, (see picture) quite wierd in a way.

28.5 miles altogether, a longer day than for some time, but relatively easy going. Jo & Dave who have been supporting us valiantly for the last week have to go home tomorrow. Oh my God, who's going to brew up and supply sandwiches for us now?

Day 34 - Wednesday 13th May

Traquair to West Linton - Woke up to a beautiful bright and frosty morning. Set off in good time to say hello to the "Bear Gates" at Traquair House and stunning tree lined view of the House and friendly Bears! The weather really made today, visibility could not have been better and everything appeared bright and fresh (including Malcolm and I). Peebles was a lovely Borders town and an encounter with a town optician (to replace Malcolms favourite glasses case) was nice too. He didn't have a case but gave Malcolm new glasses for no charge - "I think you're mad, have them and sod off" he said to us. Thank you, eccentric a tad, but kind too.

Jo and Dave met us and provided a lovely lunch enjoyed on the grass

Day 33 - Tuesday 12th May

Melrose to Traquair - Another lovely day, this time heading West along part of the Southern Upland Way. Again a riverside start along the Tweed, followed by a 2 mile climb to a hill called The Three Brethren, with fabulous views in every direction - a full 360 degree panorama of stunningly beautiful hills, valleys, woods and forests.The Southern Upland Way was an excellent path, firm underfoot and not a bog to be seen (or fallen into). We saw a deer and a pair of red coated hares and we thoroughly enjoyed our third day in Scotland and passed the 800 mile point, two thirds of the way.

Since starting our epic journey we seem to have kept pace with Spring. In Cornwall we had bluebells in the woods, 2 weeks later in the Midlands we had them again and today, nearly 5 weeks on, we ran through a wonderful wood full of bluebells and have effectively extended Spring by moving north at the same rate as the seasons.

Day 32 - Monday 11th May

Jedburgh to Melrose - We like it in Scotland, not only is it beautiful but it's warm and sunny. Our route today followed part of St Cuthberts Way, a super long distance path from Lindisfarne to the Scottish Borders. We started along the banks of the River Tweed, famous for its salmon fishing and finished with the climb over the Eildon Hills before descending into Melrose, where we had our first ice creams since Porthleven in Cornwall - God, that seems a long time ago!

Had a great evening meal cooked for us by Kate & Pete, friends of Jo & Dave, (not Messrs Price & Andre!) who live near Melrose. Picture shows us in delightful mixed woodland just out of Jedburgh. MPB

One Month On - An Overview

So we made it to Scotland. We've run the full length of England and seen a lot of the best bits. We haven't taken the most direct route and certainly not the fastest and have done 755 miles in England with another 450 or so in Scotland. We're still both chirpy (well, most of the time) and still tolerating each other's company. We've had a few little injury niggles but on the whole we're both remarkably healthy, one of us having lost some weight (the other didn't have any to lose). Not having had any days off, the legs tend to ache and its hard work getting going in the mornings after stops, but once we get moving we're OK.

We're always pleased to finish each day but we still look forward to the next day with enthusiasm rather than dread. There's still a long way to go, but we're nearer the end than the start so we're getting more confident about making it.

We're eternally grateful to everyone who has supported and encouraged us and also to everyone who has donated or promised a donation to our chosen charities, Marie Curie Cancer Care and Macmillan Cancer Support. Even perfect strangers we have met en route have given us money which is very gratifying.

So, onward and upward to John O'Groats (p.s. some slightly warmer weather please!) MPB

Day 31 - Sunday 10th May

One calendar month on! weather calm and brightness in the air. Jo & Dave spending time with friends Pete & Kate in Melrose, so Chris left to babysit! Brutal climb onto moor (Cicerone's description, not ours) to be greeted by stunning views, these would accompany us all day. Warning of feral goats (does Malcolm count?) but it should have said look out for the 'Great Grimpen Mire' (ref: The Hound Of The Baskervilles), Malcom didn't and went thigh deep into a sphagnum moss pit, luckily for him Aly had watched 'Moor S.O.S.' and was able to rescue him! More panoramic views that are hard to describe, the Cheviot Hills were beautiful, weather warm with excellent visibility and although going underfoot was slow we loved every step and vista.

Chris was in charge of stove at teastop and did an admirable job. We crossed the border into Scotland at approx. 755 miles and then followed the Roman road, Dere Street, all the way to Jedburgh. A delightful day filled with wondrous views unchanged over the years. A day to fill your heart with pure joy. Arrived in Jedburgh in time to enjoy the luxury of a deep bath at our delightful B&B, where the offer of clothes washing was gladly accepted, (Airenlea B&B, Amanda and Chris Scott).

20.5 miles - short by our standards but every step enjoyed. Aly.

Day 30 - Saturday 9th May

Once Brewed to Byness - 23.5 miles intially through beautiful Northumbrian countyside and then over moorland (see picture) and through the Kielder Forest. Aly's stiff hip marginally better, resulting in more positive noises emanating from her than yesterday's doom & gloom!

Another fairly cold and windy day with a mixture of sunshine and rain. After 30 days we finally managed to achieve a day where the actual mileage was less than the estimated mileage (only by 1/2 mile but still a triumph!)

Another of Jo's magnificent meals in the evening (only the basil leaves were missing but she apologised for this and we accepted her apology).

Day 29 - Friday 8th May

Alston to Once Brewed - 27.5 miles. Said goodbye to Gill and Bernard who had given us great support for the last few days. Very tough day, 27.5 miles in cold and, again, very windy conditions. Aly concerned about a bit of a niggle in her left hip but battled on stoically.

Abandoned the Pennine Way for the first part of the day and instead followed the South Tyne Trail, a cycle route along a disused railway line. Then plotted a route which involved crossing the River Tyne on a bridle path clearly marked on the O/S map. Unfortunately there was no bridge to cross the river when we got there, so having discarded the idea of swimming across, we had to go further on to a byway which definitely crossed the river according to the map, except it didn't in reality. We finally got across a few miles further on than planned and had to plot a new route in consequence.

Went past Vindolanda, one of the best preserved Roman camps (see picture), and then in true marathon fashion, hit the wall. It was however, Hadrian's Wall which we crossed to rejoin the Pennine Way and 5 miles of bog, which completely sapped what strength we had left. Somewhat relieved to finish! Jo and Dave arrived in the evening to support us again for the next few days. Jo cooked us a meal and had clearly benefitted from my constructive criticism to try harder as it was actually quite good. As a reward she gets to cook for us again tomorrow. MPB

Day 28 - Thursday 7th May

Dufton to Alston - 20 miles. Only 20 miles today but just as well as our route included Cross Fell, the highest mountain in England outside the Lake District (2930 feet). The visibility was excellent, so we had superb views across the vale of Eden to the Lake District. We also had the strongest winds ever experienced by human beings (well, these two anyway). Gill and Bernard cooked us a great meal at the brilliant Alston Youth Hostel (Carlsberg don't do Youth Hostels, but if they did ....). Chris Wren rejoined us for the next few days and we also got a visit from Tim & Tracy Darke en route to Ben Nevis for the 3-Peaks Challenge. MJB

Day 27 - Wednesday 6th May

Middleton to Dufton. A slightly strange day in that we travelled east to west and finished the day no nearer to John O'Groats than when we started the day. It was however a day not to be missed as it contained some of the highlights of the whole adventure. Set off in sunshine along the River Tees, a stunningly beautiful river which we followed upstream for some 11 miles, past Low Force and High Force waterfalls. It had rained all hight and the volume of water coming over the falls was awesome. We finally left the Tees at another fantastic waterfall, Caudron Snout where the 30 yard wide river squeezes itself through a tiny gap in the rocks and plunges down the rocks in a ferocious torrent. The Pennine Way involves a climb up the rocks right alongside the waterfall - quite scary, particularly in the strong wind. We then had a long trek against the wind before the moors suddenly opened to reveal High Cup Nick, one of the most stunning natural phenomena in Britain - an enormous sheer sided and fantastically beautiful valley. Descended to Dufton Youth Hostel with a garden full of wildlife, in particular almost tame red squirrels.

Day 26 - Tuesday 5th May

Keld to Middleton - 22 miles.
Gill Lord having been put in charge of weather yesterday and having been about as useless at it as Aly, Malcolm again had to resume responsibility for weather and made a commendable job of it, given the depressingly bad forecast. Instead of rain all day as forecast we got a mostly dry day with even the odd hint of sunshine. Also the wind, which had ripped through us yesterday, was a lot less severe.

Gary and Mary left us after breakfast and we left Keld via a beautiful little waterfall. We then had approximately 20 miles of mainly featureless moorland past the Tan Hill Inn (Englands highest pub) and through innumerable bogs. Malcolm fell over twice and would undoubtedly have received considerable sympathy from Aly if she had been able to stop laughing.

This was probably the least attractive day so far, though it was slightly redeemed towards the end by carpets of marsh marigolds and a super grassy track from the top of the moors down into Middleton in Teesdale. DIned in style at the 16-18 Cafe on 'Biker's Night' where we were made very welcome and had a great evening with the local hairy bikers!

Day 25 - Monday 4th May

Miles covered 14. Set off in wet gusty conditions with Malc N, Linda and Jane to visit Hardraw Force en route to Great Shunner Fell and a long climb. Entry to the waterfall is through a pub lounge, quite bizarre, payment of £2 allows you to walk to the waterfall which was dramatic even in dull conditions (Barbs paid for us all, another of her many treats during her stay). Then we were off on what turned out to be an exillerating but hard climb over Great Shunner Fell in severe conditions, low cloud and very strong cold winds (actually took me off my feet and onto the ground once). Fortunately much of the route was paved with flagstones making the going less arduous.

Arrived in Thwaite and took refuge in the Teashop which was an opportunity to thaw out too. Barbs arrived and we said goodbye to her and Malc N, they will both be missed. Barbs has been our Fairy Godmother - thanks a miilion. Last section was short and sweet to Keld still with Linda, glorious primroses lined the side of Kisdon Hill and views of Swaledale were enjoyed. Arrived at Keld and said goodbye to Linda and Jane (returning home) and welcomed Gill Lord and Bernard, our support for the next few days.

Our B&B had a roaring fire whichwas just what we needed after the bitterly cold winds on Great Shunner Fell.

Aly

Sunday, 3rd May 2009 (Day 24)

19 miles Pen-y-Ghent to Hawes

Awoke to a beautiful rainbow. Day started with a climb to the top of Pen-y-Ghent where views were stunning. Very cold and windy but the views excellent all day. Linda accompanied us on our climb and we were then joined by Jane too at Horton-in-Ribblesdale - our halfway point - 606 miles covered now!

Rest of day was on well defined tracks and although it involved lots of climbs, generally it wasn't too severe. Views back to Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent were magical.

Ended day with a lovely descent to Hawes and a brief visit to Wallace and Gromit's Wensleydale Creamery!

Malcolm's son Paul and wife Louise joined him for afternoon tea.
Love
Aly

Saturday, 2nd May 2009 (Day 23)

17 miles Gargrave to base of Pen-y-Ghent.

Lovely start along River Aire to Malham and then up through the stunning Malham Cove. Saw a beautiful barn owl at very close quarters. Over limestone pavements and then a long, long climb over Fountain Fell before descending to base of Pen-y-Ghent which looked a frightening prospect.

Returned to Malham for the night, where Aly's friends Judy and Tony visited on a flying visit from Countesthorpe and Malcolm's sister Rosemary and husband Ron came for the evening meal.
MPB

Friday, 1st May 2009 (Day 22)

29 Miles Hebden Bridge to Gargrave

Linda Whitelegg (running) and Jane Chilton (Supporting) joined us after 8 miles - fantastic, lovely girls (according to Linda). Joined the Pennine Way today and we shall now be following this for the next week or so until we get into Scotland.

Also joined at lunch by Gary and Mary and by Malcolm Nicholson - Wendy should have come but she was having a baby (or something like that).

Ended day in rolling pastoral landscape after long haul over bleakish moorland. Looking forward to a few shorter days over the bank holiday.

Thursday 30th April (Day 21)

Only 23.5 miles today, but our hardest day so far - Holmfirth to Hebdon Bridge,
via numerous reservoirs and over quite a lot of fairly bleak moorland. The weather forecast was for rain all day but with Malcolm back in charge of weather, it naturally didn't rain until the last half mile. Much of the route was very difficult underfoot and made running more or less impossible for long sections. And there were hills. And some more hills. Oh, and some hills.

Wednesday 29th April (Day 20)

A brilliant day - one of the best so far. 26.4 miles from Hathersage to Holmfirth.
Woke up to thick mist and dressed up for a cold day, but the sun broke through just as we set off and the mist soon lifted from the hills, giving us beautiful weather all day long.
Super route along Ladybower, Derwent and Howden reservoirs, then over Mickleton Edge to Langsett and along the Trans-pennine Cycle Way. Great support again from Barbara on her bicyle.

Tuesday 28th April (Day19)

After 2 highly successful weeks with Malcolm as project manager (weather), Aly pleaded to be given the chance to be project manager (weather),for a week, and this was reluctantly agreed. Unfortunately, as feared, she was an unmitigated disaster and we were soaked and frozen for most of yesterday. Malcolm therefore resumed as project manager today, with immediately beneficial results - no rain and reasonable sunshine. Aly returned to dealing with matters more suited to her abilities - buzzard spotting and toe-nail painting.
After three consecutive days of 31 miles each, today thankfully was a "rest" day, of only 17 miles. Our route from Youlgreave to Hathersage was superb, taking in the three beautiful estates of Haddon, Chatsworth and Longshaw.
Went through 500 miles on the way into Hathersage, where we met Aly's parents, Sheila and Robin, and Aly's sister Libby. Stayed at Hathersage Youth Hostel and cooked our evening meal for a nice change.